High Flow Pump and Controller

**eboggs_jkvl** · 07-28-2006, 03:40 PM

Aeromotive a1000 fuel pump mounted and wired. Large diameter wire on ground terminal is the fuel pump ground. The other two wires are ground for the fuel pump controller and the boost switch. Note that I have my fuel pressure regulator mounted in this area. It is a Boost referenced regulator and it increases fuel pressure under boost by 1 PSI fuel per 1 PSI of boost.

#12 hose going into fuel tank. Inside tank is a #12 hose tied to the factory sending unit bracket so it sits in the sump of the tank. On the end of the hose in the tank in a sock style filter. The sealant on the fitting is called “GOOP”. This is what Snow Performance recommends for their water / meth nozzles. This location is looking at the bottom of the tank as high up as you can go toward the axle. The gray wall you see is the wall that the folding seatback rests against on the inside of the chassis.

This is another angle of the #12 hose going into the tank. We had to angle the fitting slightly upwards to insure the rear end did not hit it when you go off-roading.

This is the stainless hose from the pump going into a "T" fitting. One side of the "T" goes to the boost referenced Fuel Pressure Regulator, the other side goes to the fuel rails.

You can also see the boost switch used to tell the fuel pump controller to go wide open as soon as boost is registered.

As I have an aftermarket sound system, my speaker is not used in this area. This is where the Pump Controller is mounted. The speaker grill allows us to see the light indications without having to remove the cover.

This is in the engine bay and the new fuel filter is mounted right at the fuel line end at the driver's side of the bay. There are some closeups

The pump can be at full pressure in many ways.

We are using boost.

If you are NA, a Tach convertor can be installed and you can control the pump with RPMs.

I was thinking that a "Window" switch for NOS applications could be the trigger for full pump load and

A switch on your throttle to sense WOT could also be used to throw the pump into high flow mode..

Here is a price list of the parts:
FBM2953 #10 O-RING TO #10 AN 1.0 @ 12.50 =$ 12.50
FBM1012 #6 HOSE END 1.0 @ 6.50 =$ 6.50
FBM2979 #8 90 DEGREE ADAPT 1.0 @ 20.00 =$ 20.00
FBM1013 #8 HOSE END 1.0 @ 8.50 =$ 8.50
15609 #10 O-RING TO #6 AN 1.0 @ 17.50 =$ 17.50
15610 #10 O-RING TO #8 AN 2.0 @ 18.00 =$ 36.00
12301 FUEL FILTER 1.0 @ 85.00 =$ 85.00
SHIP SHIPPING 1.0 @ 47.40 =$ 47.40
100551 #6 TO TUBE ADAPT 1.0 @ 9.50 =$ 9.50
SHIP SHIPPING 1.0 @ 21.99 =$ 21.99
* #10 AN BULK HEAD FITTI 1.0 @ 12.00 =$ 12.00
FBM4034 #10 90 DEGREE HOSE END 2.0 @ 25.00 =$ 50.00
782-3104 CKT BREAKER 1.0 @ 14.95 =$ 14.95
701-1603 PRESSURE SWITCH 1.0 @ 53.95 =$ 53.95
FCA1003 #10 HOSE (3 FT) 1.0 @ 24.50 =$ 24.50
FBM4022 #6 45 DEGREE HOSE END 1.0 @ 19.00 =$ 19.00
FCA0603 #6 HOSE (3 FT) 1.0 @ 17.00 =$ 17.00
* 1/8 NPT "T" FITTING 1.0 @ 8.25 =$ 8.25
Aeromotive A1000 Fuel Pump $295.95
AEI-16302 Fuel Pump Controller $265.95
15107 Check Valve-S $69.95
FBM 2917 #10 coupler $12.50
555-100167 #10 to #10 O-Ring S $9.99

Elmer

**eboggs_jkvl** · 07-29-2006, 12:22 AM

Ok, here's how this setup is working.

99% of the time I'm running with the pump on the "low" setting. While it is there, the fuel pressure is 51 PSI and rock steady. When I get at the threshold for boost, the gauge snaps immediately to 58 PSI and as boost comes up, the fuel pressure regulator adds the fuel pressure as originally designed. My WOT tuning that we already did is absolutely spot on. My cruising pressure is lower and I'll slap my EFILive on it to see how my trims are doing.

It looks great and seems to have solved my dropping fuel pressure problem.

E

drptopz · 07-29-2006, 02:57 AM

The fuel pump controller is a very nice unit. I was impressed with it's build quality.

E's correct, a window switch for N2O users would work great!!

We set his up with a hobbs switch set for .5 psi. Once this level is exceed, it simply applies a ground to the controller and it steps up to 100%.

It would also be nice for setups with very large injectors that don't like the very small injector pulse rate at idle. Simply hook up the tach signal so the pump goes 100% at a higher rpm than idle. The lower pressure / volume below this rpm would require a larger pulse width to deliver the same amount of fuel.

What is nice about this setup is that you are not "over driving" the pump with higher voltage like most "boost a pump" type products do. This actually runs a low voltage until the threshold is exceeded. By running at a lower voltage, the pump doesn't get nearly as hot, which is better for the fuel going in the engine, and the longevity of the pump.

E - It was a pleasure working on the beast again. You know my number and email if you need anything else!

**eboggs_jkvl** · 07-20-2010, 01:51 PM

Let's update this shall we?

Pump was getting too hot and cavitating. Pressure was dropping. Thought it was the filter, nope. Pump was failing. Replaced it. All was well.

Short time 4 months (?) same problem. We are on the 2nd pump now. Did I mention that this failure happened on the way home from Cincinnati, in the mountains of Carolina. I staggered it home by stopping every time the pump overheated and crawling under the car and spraying the pump with water. Drive more, stop and spray etc until I got into Georgia. Dave came and picked me up from mid Georgia. Decided to get in tank system to keep it cool. Stainless steel tank installed, NEW A1000 installed in tank. Problem seemed gone.

Stealth tank Install

Car sold to my son in Cincinnati.

Fuel pressure starts to fail again. Aeromotive is called and the system we used is described ( exactly the same as they recommend for long life) They send a new pump, he returns the old failure & they rebuild it and send it to him as a spare. Pump seems ok.

note: at this juncture, I told the kid to throw that crap away and install a twin Walbro but he went the easy way and used the connections already in there for the new A1000. (big mistake!

)

Guess what happened when he was on the dyno getting a SD tune? Come on, guess!

Fuel pressure started to go down.

NOTE TO WORLD: A1000 Aeromotive pumps suck extremely and should NEVER be used in ANY car. (unless you enjoy dropping the fuel tank, then buy them because those trashy pumps are going to fail!)

Son is now looking at installing twin pumps in the tank after he drops it AGAIN and an Aeromotive A1000 will NEVER be in the fuel system of any car in our family EVER!!!!

A1000 =

Elmer

**eboggs_jkvl** · 07-20-2010, 03:10 PM

One more thing.

The A1000 is the loudest, noisiest, groaner that I've ever heard when it's in operation, line pressure mode or shutting down.

This pump is so much fail that it exemplifies the meaning of FAIL!!!!!!!

Elmer

Soul TKR · 07-23-2010, 11:41 AM

well... thanks for that informative yet somewhat odd critique of the A1000 there E...

**smiley** · 07-23-2010, 06:10 PM

would have been nice to know 4 years ago huh?

**eboggs_jkvl** · 07-23-2010, 07:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by smiley

would have been nice to know 4 years ago huh?

Oh hell yes it would! Aeromotive has a dog that won't hunt!

**eboggs_jkvl** · 07-31-2010, 03:31 PM

Round 600 :ding:

I placed a post on another forum asking for information on in-tank pumps. I needed to know if any pumps had two hose fittings on the pump so the output and pickup could be plumbed to work in the "Rick's" tank. In the post, I mentioned that we had eaten 4 A1000s and wouldn't be going that way again. As it sits now, Brian is very wary about driving the car anywhere for fear that it will go belly up and the pump will croak. I spent many hours on the side of the road with a malfunctioning fuel pump. For a guy alone in the car, a pump failure is just a nuisance but with wife and daughter riding, it is NOT something that is considered acceptable.

Someone from Aeromotive "noticed" my post and has proactively contacted wheeljunky (Brian) to try one more time to get this system to work. I applaud their effort.

The plan this time is for Brian to remove and return to Aeromotive the following:

1) Aeromotive A1000 fuel pump from the tank.
2) Aeromotive 13109 - A1000-6 Injected Bypass Regulator
3) Aeromotive AEI-16302 Fuel Pump Controller
4) Aeromotive 12301 billet fuel filter.

Aeromotive will send new replacements for all 4 parts.

Also, they have requested the fuel pressure regulator be moved from the rear location of the car to the engine bay.

The car will be reassembled (I wish to hell I was in Cincinnati to help) and then the car will be put back on the dyno for the SD & 2.5 bar MAP tune and see if the fuel pressure will hold.

I will withhold any further statements about Aeromotive products until I see the results of this effort. Getting the pump and system to work long enough to get the car tuned is one thing BUT longevity is the key here. The car is driven to shows and "meets". It MUST BE RELIABLE to function for years, not just months. They had planned on going to a show in Myrtle Beach Carolina. That would have been a disaster.

Elmer

**eboggs_jkvl** · 08-05-2010, 08:31 PM

New information confirmed.

External in-line Walbro will work in the tank. External Walbro has threaded input and output. Adapters available to hook the two pumps up to existing internal plumbing.

Pump controller not needed.
Installing additional bulk head connector for 2nd pump.
Hooking relay to hop switch to run 2nd pump at 12V during boost conditions.

The quest for knowledge never ends!

Elmer